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Travel at the Speed of Horse... On the trail of the Old West
By Joy Ufford
You haven't seen the real West until you've viewed it from the top of a horse, with an alpine breeze ruffling your hair as your mount clip-clops along the trail.
Whether you're a tenderfoot or experienced horseman, there are plenty of options to choose from, with mountain country outfitters offering trail rides that last anywhere from an hour to as many days as you can go without a shower.
First of all, decide what country you'd like to see. There are outfitters in all the major towns like Jackson, Cody, Dubois, and Pinedale for a quick trip. Ranches in outlying areas and stables in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks also supply riders with stock and guides.
In less than an hour or two, the mountain ranges, alpine lakes, and geyser basins in the Greater Yellowstone Region can be brought right in front of your camera. But if it's the flavor of the wilderness you're after, consider a half-day or full-day trail ride. Many outfitters provide lunch trips, and some even cook up a steak over a campfire or whip up a Dutch oven dinner over red-hot coals.
Also consider how long you can ride without getting too saddlesore, although it's true that the aches and pains from a longer ride will ease up and vanish in a day or so, and you'll have plenty of great memories and photographs to take home for your efforts. It never hurts to check and see if your lodging has a hot tub or masseuse on hand, too!
For the adventurous, a pack trip just might fulfill those dreams of riding dusty trails probably first traveled by ancient Native American hunters stalking wild game. A pack trip (so-called because horses or mules are packed with all necessary gear) can last a night or even a week the only limit is your stamina for a rustic backcountry lifestyle. The cost generally includes meals, tents, and some good old-fashioned entertainment under the stars. Spending a night in a grassy meadow, listening to horse bells clang and coyotes howl, is a surefire way to create a one-of-a-kind visit to Wyoming.
A different twist on pack trips is offered by Wagons West. They take modern day pioneers into the Bridger-Teton National Forest backcountry for two-, four- or six-day covered wagon excursions. After a day rolling along remote mountain trails and taking in scenic vistas, guest are treated to a hearty chuckwagon-style dinner, cooked over the open campfire before bedding down under the starry night sky.
For those who want to combine luxury with wilderness hospitality, there are first-class guest ranches throughout the region, where getting in a daily horseback ride is the norm. Some are extra-good at catering to the family, with special kids' programs that let parents have a little time off for themselves.
For guests wanting a day off from the saddle, these ranches usually offer fly fishing, square dancing, soaking in a sun-warmed pool, or reading bestsellers in the shade of an old cottonwood tree. Keep in mind that reservations might be required, and many guest ranches request a three-night minimum stay.
If you like the idea of the Old West but groan at the thought of actually riding a horse, there's still hope for you.
Finding an outfitter or ranch that meets your needs is as easy as opening the Yellow Pages to "Horse Rentals and Riding," "Guest Ranches," and "Guide Services." Another option is to call the Wyoming Outfitter and Guide Association in Cody (307-527-7453) for a listing of its licensed members. Also, any outfitter worth his or her salt will give you as much help as possible outfitters live this life because they love being outside and on a horse, themselves.
Finally, locals love to share their experiences and knowledge, so don't be afraid to ask for their opinions and advice. Other sources of information include lodging activities desks, the local chambers of commerce, and national forest offices.
So whether your hero is Buffalo Bill Cody, Wyatt Earp, or Annie Oakley, it's a sure bet that just seeing the wide-open Wild West by saddling up and hitting the "big Dusty' will make for an unforgettable vacation.
Joy Ufford is a freelance writer living in Jackson Hole.
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