Whitewater River Trips
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By Matt Hansen
The anticipation of what awaits around the next bend penetrates even the most adventurous souls rafting down the Snake River Canyon. Behind every river runner's smile is an enormous curiosity to see what's next. But before you see it, you'll hear it coming from somewhere in the depths of the canyon's belly: the thundering sound of water crashing on water. And when you finally round that bend and spy the rapids, your anticipation will border on the unbearable.
"It's like a roller coaster. You don't really have a sense of fear, even if you can see and hear what's coming. But you do have that anticipation. You get the big eyes," said Dave Hansen, a local float company owner who has been taking people down the canyon for more than 30 years. Hansen, owner of Dave Hansen Whitewater Trips, noted that taking people down this eight-mile stretch of the Snake River south of Jackson is really like giving someone a gift. "When they get on the other side of Lunch Counter and they are hooting and hollering,
you've given them one heck of a gift," he said.
Lunch Counter is probably the most famous of the several rapids on the trip, which takes about four hours total, shuttle time included. Breck O'Neill, owner of Mad River Boat Trips, a local whitewater float company that began in 1977, says that floating the Snake brings someone to a world that can't be seen from behind a windshield. "A raft is a different vehicle for traveling through wilderness," O'Neill said. "You're not only getting the rush of whitewater, but at the same time you're getting to float through some really pristine
areas."
You don't have to be an experienced rafter to go down the canyon, though. Experienced guides know the way. Both companies float U-paddle boats, in which the guide sits in the rear to steer and provide instruction to the passengers, who use their own paddles to get the boat down the river. Sit in the front of the boat if you want to see the most action and don't mind getting soaked.
Both companies also have oar boats in their fleets. The guides do all the work in these rafts as they push and pull the oars to maneuver the boat within the current.
Since many folks who visit the area have the primary objective of seeing Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, the Snake River has always been a family-oriented place, Hansen added. "This has been, from day one, a family whitewater area because of the two parks. Eighty percent of the people who come here, come for the parks and end up taking a raft trip," he said. "You couldn't find a better river for the people who wind up using it." Rafting the Snake reminds you of what it's like to use all of your senses again, making you feel alive. And the desire for more is never quenched.
"On the ride home they all wish they had a little bit more," Hansen noted.
Matt Hansen, a boatman on the Snake River for two years, is now a journalist for the Jackson Hole Guide.
Boating Choices-Where to go
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By Porter Fox
Scenic Floats
If you don't think the splash-and-giggle scene is for you, check out the possibility of going on a scenic trip. It is here where you are likely to encounter some of the larger mammals that inhabit the region.
Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, black and grizzly bear can all be seen along regional waterways. In addition, wolves recently made their way into Grand Teton National Park, so it's only a matter of time before these, too, might be spotted along the banks of the Snake.
Sometimes all you may want is silence, and a float through the park offers the perfect answer for a quiet, lazy afternoon.
The scenic upper section of the Snake is much different from its white-water counterpart; it is very braided, with many different routes and side channels. The shoreline varies greatly along these sections of river, with dense forests of spruce and lodgepole pine giving way to the deciduous stands of cottonwoods and aspen, where beavers like to make their home.
Scenic floats also allow for more of an interpretive trip, with guests learning the history of the valley, its fur trappers, and geography while gaining insight into Western heritage.
Sea Kayaks
Another flat-water option is available for those wanting to peacefully cruise a scenic shoreline. Sea kayaking has become popular in places like Puget Sound and Baja, but it is also a perfect way to tour a high-mountain lake and view the wildlife that frequents the beaches.
Along the Snake River
In Grand Teton National Park, the Snake River has canoeing, kayaking, or rafting. Powerboats are allowed on Jackson and Jenny Lakes. Most others are open to paddled boats only. Life preservers and boat permits are required. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small power boats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay Marinas on Jackson Lake. Info: (307) 739-3399.
Class III and IV white water begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self registration, while not required, is available at West Table. Info: (307) 739-5500.
Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids. Call (307) 739-5500 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys Rivers.
Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir, near Alpine Junction (power and sail boats).
Green River & Pinedale Area
The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing. For information call (307) 367-4352. Fremont and Halfmoon Lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sail boats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only.
Cody & the north fork
In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with ClassIV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. North Fork info: (307) 527-6921, main river info: (307) 527-7125.
Waterskiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227.
Yellowstone National Park
In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, and sailboats are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis Lakes, but only paddled boats on Shoshone Lake. All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Info: (307) 242-2413.
North of Yellowstone
The Yellowstone River is accessible north of the park in Gardiner, Montana. The best rapids are found 12 miles north in the Yankee Jim Canyon. Canoes, kayaks, and tubes are common along the rest of the river up through that canyon to Livingston and to Big Timber. The Gallatin River, west and north of the park, offers good white water in the Gallatin Canyon. Info: (406) 994-4042.
West of Yellowstone
West of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon, and idyllic floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-2337.
Everything from power boats to paddle craft can put in on four lakes near West Yellowstone. Outboards can be rented at Hebgen Lake, while paddled boats and motorized "personal water craft" are available at Henry's Lake. Info: (406) 646-7701.
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