by Rebecca Woods

Sun dances on ice, fragmenting into bits of rainbow suspended in crystalline skies. Mist rising from the Snake River swirls around a solitary moose browsing on willows. A coyote’s howl signals the end of another day.

Winter has arrived.

The quiet season in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks creates a magical landscape of snow-covered peaks bathed in alpenglow, ghost trees, and geyser eruptions magnified by the heightened clash of extreme heat and cold. Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, photography, and wildlife watching all set the stage for opportunities that can unveil the magic of the landscape and its inhabitants to winter visitors. The world beyond the groomed slopes awaits.

SNOWSHOEING
The wooden contraptions of yore have been replaced with strong, lightweight, and easy-to-manage equipment, perhaps accounting for the burgeoning popularity of this winter activity. Snowshoers have the world at their feet, aided by cleats and secure bindings. Favorite Grand Teton destinations include Signal and Shadow mountains. Both offer unfettered views of the snow-clad Tetons, have gentle to moderate grades, and typically low-to-moderate avalanche danger. Oxbow Bend is a superb choice for those seeking wildlife. Moose, otter, and waterfowl are often spied at this idyllic spot, dominated by towering 12,605-foot Mount Moran.

The 1.5-mile Terrace Loop Trail in northern Yellowstone provides sweeping views of both the lower terraces, whose springs daily deposit up to two tons of travertine, and of historic Fort Yellowstone, built by the U.S. Cavalry before the formation of the National Park Service in 1916.  And the thermal basins near Old Faithful shouldn’t be missed. Here the largest concentration of geysers in the world erupt with a majesty not witnessed in the summer months, the height of shooting steam and water doubled by the interaction with colder temperatures. Azure hot pools, comical mud pots, and hissing steam vents compete for attention with bison and elk seeking easier forage around the thermal areas, making sightings of these animals the rule rather than the exception. Snowshoeing and/or walking through the basins (the choice dictated by conditions) is an intimate experience quite different from that of a busy summer’s day.

Please remember: backcountry etiquette dictates that snowshoers not walk in cross-country ski tracks.


CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING
The Yellowstone park concessionaire and numerous retailers in Jackson Hole rent cross-country skis. Most beginners quickly master the balance required to glide across flat terrain. Recommended, easy tours include:

Jackson Hole:
Northeast Snake River Dike
The sweeping majesty of the Tetons, from Teton Pass north to the Grand, is enjoyed on this flat, 5-mile roundtrip tour. Because it receives a fair amount of use, the route is usually well-tracked. From Jackson, drive approximately four miles to the dike turnoff, located on the right side of the highway just before the Snake River Bridge. Traveling from Teton Village or Wilson, the turnoff is the first left after crossing the bridge.

Grand Teton National Park: 
Cottonwood Creek to Lucas Ranch
This flat 3.2-mile roundtrip tour follows the base of the Tetons to an historic ranch that offers skiers both a sunny deck to enjoy lunch and spectacular close-up views of the peaks. Park at Taggart trailhead and ski north to the deserted ranch. Skiers wishing to extend their outing can continue north towards Jenny Lake.

Yellowstone National Park:
Fairy Falls
Taking a snowcoach from Old Faithful to the Fountain Flats Road shortens this tour to a do-able 8.5 miles. Highlights include 197-foot Fairy Falls, frozen in a lacy curtain of blue ice, and the sparkling pools and thermal features of Biscuit Basin.

Virtually unlimited options await experienced cross-country skiers. Skinny Skis, in Jackson, distributes a free cross-country ski guide briefly outlining popular tours; Richard DuMais’ 50 Ski Tours in Jackson Hole and Yellowstone is a comprehensive resource.

So look for wildlife. Soak in the scenery from your skis or snowshoes. Discover the parks all over again.

Rebecca Woods has lived in Jackson Hole since 1978. She is the author of four guides to the region: Jackson Hole Hikes, Walking the Winds, Targhee Trails, and Beyond the Tetons.

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