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White Pine Ski Resort
Serving families an easy-to-digest plateful of Cowboy Powder in the Wind River Mountains of Pinedale, Wyoming.
By Ann Noble
I
grew up skiing. My parents had me on the ski hill at age six,
struggling with hand-me-down wooden skies and lace-up boots. And
although we skied for fun and competed with our friends, by high
school, my siblings and I had long surpassed our parents in skill.
As I grew older, though, a
career and children edged out my time on the slopes, but not my love
of the sport. And now I’d like to instill that same love of skiing
in my kids. I married a rancher and live near Pinedale, and thanks
to White Pine Ski Area, my family can create its own fond memories
of skiing right here in cowboy country.
White Pine Ski Area was built in
1938 by Sonny Korfanta, whose daughter Karen skied for the U.S.
Olympic team. Originally built and operated solely by locals, it
featured just one run until the early 1960s, when a tow lift was
added and more runs were cut. The resort operated in this simple
fashion until financial problems forced a shutdown in the spring of
1984.
Now, thanks in part to the
vision of longtime Wyomingite Stuart Thompson, and after 15 years of
dedicated work, the resort has reopened. "White Pine is trying to
bring a new dimension to how people think about skiing in the West,"
says Thompson. "When people think of Skiing in the West, they think
of Alta, Jackson Hole, Targhee, and Whistler all in the same
breath," he continues. "We’re trying to bring something additional
to the ‘Ski Jackson Hole’ orbit."
He recognizes that the West
needs a more complete picture of what skiing presents to the rest of
the country. "We’re not looking to compete with Jackson Hole,
Targhee, and Snow King, but rather we’re trying to create skiers who
will eventually ski the steeps of Jackson Hole."
Located ten miles northeast of
Pinedale, Wyoming, in the Bridger-Teton National Forest, White
Pine’s high altitude and consistent storms make for a long ski
season. The lifts open on Thanksgiving and don’t quit until Easter
- and skiers enjoy fresh powder throughout the long season.
The resort’s altitude and views
are breathtaking. The ski hill’s summit is practically in the Wind
River Mountains, and skiers can see the Wyoming and Gros Ventres
ranges, Utah’s Uintas, and even the peaks of the Tetons.
With over 25 runs, including two
more opening this year, White Pine’s terrain is diverse. And unlike
most ski resorts, where the "bunny hill" is far away from the
challenging runs, White Pine’s beginner lift runs parallel to the
Great Spirit Lift, which takes more advanced skiers to the resort’s
top. So, after encouraging her kids for a few runs or leaving them
with one of the experienced ski instructors, mom gets to enjoy her
own runs while still being able to watch the youngsters, and maybe
even join them on the tail end of her run. That makes it the kind
of place where the kids and I can have a great day together.
Even
dad, who has chosen to stick with Nordic skiing in his middle age,
can join us for a day’s skiing. Several kilometers of cross-country
trails are near the resort, so we park the car only once to reach
everyone’s starting point. These well-groomed Nordic trails also
cover a variety of terrain, taking the skier through winding paths
of peaceful pine groves and open meadow patches, and over
challenging inclines and declines. The views from these trails are
priceless, but there’s no charge to ski on them.
Gone are the days, naturally,
when I could ski all day without a break. In my middle age I
appreciate a warm spot, where the kids and I can get a reasonably
priced lunch. We’re well taken care of in White Pine’s new lodge,
where the open dining area of the White Pine Grill is passed up for
deck dining only on those warm, blue-sky days. The 12,000-square
foot, three-story building is located at the base of the alpine ski
lifts and near the Nordic trails. Given its central location, the
lodge works well as a take-off and gathering point for groups.
The lodge is also home to the
Max Lundberg Ski School, which offers private and groups lessons in
skiing or snowboarding. The White Pine Ski Shop and Rental is also
located there, making the ski trip to White Pine easy and
convenient.
Nonskiers are also welcome at
the lodge, where, as spectators, they can enjoy the views out the
giant windows facing the ski hills and runs. The lodge has also
become a community gathering place for private parties.
A trip to White Pine is worth a
weekend’s stay. It’s hard to believe that a town without a stop
light has everything a visitor might need, but somehow Pinedale
does. Still small enough to offer old-fashioned, small-town
hospitality, Pinedale boasts that it’s also large enough to have
"all the civilization you need!"
Variety best describes
Pinedale’s accommodations. Pinedale offers cozy Bed and Breakfasts,
cabins, and large chain and small motels. Most are located in town
and within walking distance to shops and restaurants. Some are away
from town, though, for those who prefer less "civilization."
Dining is a delight in the town
where the restaurants are still locally owned and the meals
homecooked. The price range will satisfy the budget minded as well
as those seeking a fine-wining-and-dining experience where menus
rival cosmopolitan areas. But the town doesn’t offer restaurant
chains, so don’t come looking for a McDonalds or Wendy’s.
If someone in your group wants
to come on the trip, but not spend the day skiing, there’s plenty to
do in town. There’s always "real Western" shopping on Main Street,
a great place to pick up Western clothing, a new pair of boots, or
genuine Western art, pottery, or unique Western home decor.
A new recreation center,
complete with bowling alley and two state-of-the-art movie theaters
- all under one roof - is scheduled to open this winter. Films for
children and adults will be shown simultaneously, offering
entertainment for everyone in the family.
A summer favorite, the
nationally recognized Museum of the Mountain Man, is open in the
winter by appointment only. But it’s an appointment worth making.
The museum features exhibits on fur trade, western exploration,
Plains Indians, and early settlement history of western Wyoming.

The Pinedale area is also a
well-established playground for snowmobilers. The famous
Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail (CDST) runs through Pinedale.
This 345-mile trail takes the sledder through open spaces, forests,
wildlife-viewing areas, and over the ridges of stunning mountain
ranges. Snowmobile rentals and outfitters are available in Pinedale
for those wanting to sled on the CDST or just in the surrounding
hills.
Even dogs like Pinedale, a stop
on the annual International Pedigree Stage Stop Dog Sled Race. When
the dogs arrive, most of the population of the town and surrounding
communities line the race course. The famous dog teams and mushers
who participate in this race make the event a worthwhile spectator
sport and round out a wealth of offerings that would make any town
proud.
For most folks, Pinedale, Wyoming,
really is "all the civilization you need."
Ann Noble, her husband, and four
daughters live in Pinedale, Wyoming, where they operate a family
cattle ranch.
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