Jackson Hole Mountain
Resort
Overview
- Activities & Programs
By Melissa Larsen
 Hello there,
Winter Traveler. Welcome to our humble mountain resort. We see
you’ve discovered our little secret, weren’t intimidated by its 'big
mountain skiing' reputation, and have, perhaps, come here to see if
the rumors were true? They are. Yep, this here is the best mountain
in the country. We might not have the biggest base lodge, or the
most raging apres scene. But we’ve got the best skiing. And in the
end, that’s all that really matters, isn’t it?
THE GOODS
Whatever you want to ski or ride, we’ve got it here. Everything.
Just take a look up at the mountain. It’s all there. You want to
know where the best skiing is, though, don’t you - where all the
locals spend their time? The problem is that even with a detailed
explanation, finding most of the secret stashes here without a guide
is a difficult endeavor. But fret not. Locals are usually fairly
willing to share hints and directions with friendly folk on lifts.
Try working one or two for some information. That way they can
point, and say, "Turn there, duck around that tree," etc. Otherwise,
try to find the following spots and you can’t go wrong:
THE HOBACKS: The closest thing to heli-skiing without a heli.
Hitting the Hobacks straight off the Tram on a powder day can move a
person to tears. To get there, follow the cat track at the bottom of
Rendezvous Bowl until it gets steep. When it doglegs to the left,
take the trail straight ahead through the trees until it opens up
onto vast powder fields you thought only existed in your dreams.
(Warning to snowboarders: If it hasn’t snowed in a while, this run
will be icy mogul-death, will take forever to get down, and will
hurt so bad you’ll think you made a wrong turn and ended up in Hell.
Save yourselves. This is a powder run only.)
 SARATOGA
BOWL: Skiers’ left off the top of Apres Vous, through the trees.
This used to be out-of-bounds, and people often forget it isn’t
anymore. Good for finding afternoon pow stashes after everything
else tracks out.
CORBET’S COULOIR: Off the Tram. Check it out on your way up (or
down) to see what all the hype is about. Beware of the fact, though,
that Corbet’s is not always good. After a storm, or a night of hard
wind, it usually fills deep with snow, and is well worth the
emotional cost of entry. But most other times it’s a sheet of ice
and chunder from the constant line of vacationing glory-seekers
hucking senselessly to their doom. Take pause and reflect on the fun
that could perhaps be had skiing an albeit less-macho run elsewhere
before you decide to be one of them. If dropping Corbet’s is a
requirement of your trip, try to do it early on a powder day because
the fresh snow doesn’t last long there.
RENDEZVOUS BOWL: The other way to get down from the Tram. On a
powder morning, it’s simply amazing - as steep, wide-open,
(frequently) wind-buffed bowls tend to be on powder days.
LARAMIE BOWL: Go straight off the top of Thunder and drop into the
bowl on your left. It runs into the Sublette quad, or to a cat track
that runs back to Thunder. It’s not a famous Jackson run, but it’s a
local favorite and fun in virtually every condition.
THE GRAND: Some seriously fun groomer shredding. Turn left off the
Thunder chair and then follow the groomer to the right. Whenever
there’s a choice, just stay right. You’ll know the place when you
get there. Wooooo! THE
SUPERPIPE: Four Olympic medals can’t be wrong, right? The best thing
about our superpipe is the vibe. People are too busy getting their
own butts kicked in the thing to care how good or bad anyone else is
riding/skiing. So it’s a cool place to learn. Plus, if a big blond
dude is standing up top with a radio, you can ask him for advice.
His name is JP Martin; he runs the park and pipe crew, and he’s a
really nice guy. Oh, yeah, there’s also a snowboard park next door.
Don’t hit the jumps with too much speed, though, or you’ll miss the
landings and ruin your trip. Both are at the bottom of Apres Vous—you’ll
see them from the lift.
THINGS TO KNOW:
"Caution Cliff" signs exist for a reason.
So do avalanche danger signs. Please pay attention to both, and
never ever (ever) go out of bounds without proper backcountry
equipment and a local guide. Death and injury are repercussions for
stupidity here, so please ski smart.
Tales of the day’s skiing/shredding grandeur will not impress local
females at bars, or anywhere else for that matter. Bragging here is
a big No Bueno. Stoke, exuberant happiness, and plans to quit your
job to relocate, however, are Muy Bueno.
HOW TO SURVIVE A POWDER MORNING
There was a time, not so long ago, that the Tram line on a powder
morning formed so uncomprehendingly early that jokes along the lines
of "I’ll see you later—got to get in tram line!" were commonly heard
in bars and restaurants around town the night before. But the advent
of some new lifts has changed the rules of this game a bit.
Motivating early is still a requirement for those seeking fresh
tracks, but just how early depends on what option you choose for
getting up the mountain the morning after a big storm.
 BLACK DIAMOND
OPTIONS: THE AERIAL TRAM
What the Tram offers that the other lifts do not is huge. Only off
the Tram can one access Corbet’s Couloir (and the not-so-famous,
rarely skied S&S Couloir), Rendezvous Bowl, and two backcountry
gates. Since all the fresh tracks will be gone by 11 a.m., timing is
everything in the morning. Also, since the terrain off the Tram is
of the challenging variety, starting there allows your complete "big
mountain" ski experience to begin the moment your equipment is on
your feet, instead of after a shuttle between multiple lifts. This
translates into more runs and more powder for you. Not to mention,
the only way to get guaranteed fresh tracks down The Hobacks is to
start at the Tram, and that alone is almost worth the hassle of the
line.
To catch the coveted "First Tram" one must still be in line at an
ungodly hour of the morning. On big days, we’re talking 7 a.m. After
7:30, forget it! You won’t get on until the third Tram box goes up,
and by that time you could be on your second lap off the Gondola.
According to local code, it is absolutely unacceptable to: 1) cut in
Tram line 2) hold your place in line with your gear and 3) cut in
Tram line. Just don’t do it. Trust me.
Signing up in advance for an "early bird" powder lesson or a private
guide will get you on a lineless early Tram (read: before the "first
[public] Tram"), and grant you lift-cutting privileges. This way,
nothing stands between you lapping the mountain top to bottom until
your legs fall off. If you’ve got the means, it’s worth the price.
 BLUE SQUARE
OPTION ONE: THE BRIDGER GONDOLA
For the serious enthusiast, it’s advisable to arrive around 8. Check
out the "line" at 9 and you’ll understand why. The Gondola moves
fast, though, so it’s only really a big deal to those of us who
don’t want anyone getting to our favorite lines first. If you’re
lucky enough to hit a succession of powder days, you’ll be in the
front of pack with the rest of us by the third day. So, 8 a.m. Now
you know.
Hint: On low visibility days, stick to terrain on either side of the
Gondola tower line. Not only is this some really fun tree skiing,
but using the lift as a guide is the best way to navigate your way
safely back down to the bottom (for another run).
BLUE SQUARE OPTION TWO: THE APRES VOUS QUAD
On a powder morning, Apres Vous (or "AV") is a hidden gem. Enjoy a
leisurely coffee, and just before 9, stroll past the horde jostling
for position at the base of the Gondola and get on the Teewinot
lift. This will take you to the AV quad, which should have no line,
and will take you to the top of Apres Vous peak. From there you can
enjoy multiple stress-free powder wigglies on the empty faces under
the chair or out in Saratoga Bowl.
GREEN CIRCLE OPTION: THE GROOMERS
If powder isn’t your bag, Baby, consider sleeping in and/or head to
AV (see above). Groomers run off every lift (except the Tram), and
they’ll be there all day, so avoid the chaos and ski the rest of the
mountain after the frenzy has died down.
WHERE THE LOCALS HANG OUT
Though it might not look like the Vortex of Cool, the unassuming
little white building to the (skiers’) right of the Tram loading
dock is where it all goes down. The Village CafÈ, located on the
first floor, is where the locals refuel and regroup during the day.
It has the best coffee, great pizza, fast breakfast and lunch, and
is a good information source for unpublished local events. If
something fun is going on, guaranteed the bartender will know the
where, what, and when.
Teton Gravity Research (or TGR or TGnar), the producer of mighty
fine ski/snowboard, surf, and kayak movies, is based out of and
located on the building’s second floor. All visiting and resident
freestyle ski/snowboard stars can be spotted hanging out in or
around this building. (Note: For trip souvenirs a bit more hip than
average, most stores in the Village carry TGR products. The younger
people on your list will thank you for your taste.)
 MUSIC
If a band is in Jackson Hole, chances are they’re in Teton Village
playing the legendary Mangy Moose Saloon. A short trip on the START
Bus takes you to Jackson Town Square, where the historic decor of
the Wort and the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar can be viewed while
dancing the cowboy swing. Or ride the START to the Shady Lady (at
Snow King), where local DJs spin a mix of techno and hip hop on
Tuesdays. And Thursday nights are always packed at the Stagecoach
for disco night. The Stagecoach is a 10-minute cab ride to the town
of Wilson.
ONE MORE THING
On a clear day, when the sun rises in the morning, it hits the tips
of the Tetons, painting them a bright color of pink that changes
hues as the light moves down the mountains until the whole valley is
lit up. Witnessing this phenomenon can be a life-changing
experience, or at least a heart-warming one. Also, when at the top
of the mountain, try to take a moment to look up and out across the
valley. This simple thing is something many of us forget to do in
our zeal to make another run. This simple thing, however, is the
other reason—more, even, than the skiing, maybe—we love Jackson
Hole, and so will you.
Melissa Larsen, an eight-year Jackson resident, is a former editor
of TransWorld SNOWboarding and Snowboarder Girl magazines. She
currently writes a regular column in Snowboarder magazine about
mountain-town living.
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