Jackson Hole: Dances with Cowboys

For a town of less than 15,000, Jackson Hole abounds in opportunities to dance. We tend to emphasize "cowboy dancing" in this quintessential cow town, but there's other styles here too.

This page is in four parts. First, Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). Second, where to dance by Type of Dance. Third, where to dance by Location. Finally, where to take some lessons if you want them. Some information will overlap.

FAQ

1) What do I wear?
There are no dress codes, anything is acceptable and you'll see the full range from shorts and sandals, to jeans/t-shirt/sneakers, to cowboys who looked like they just got off a horse, to cowboys who looked like they just walked off a Hollywood set, to tie and jacket (very little of that, thank heavens). The exception would be some special events where cowboy attire is encouraged, but not mandatory; and theme dances, such as Disco Night at the Stagecoach, where adventuresome folks dress the part.

2) How much does it cost?
Cover charges do exist at some venues but they aren't steep (by city standards), under $5.00, unless it's more of a concert such as those at Snow King and the Mangy Moose that could, but not always, push the $20.00 range. The Stagecoach and the Shady Lady are always free. The Cowboy and the Rancher are free to locals with a valid Teton County driver's license.

3) Will I feel comfortable going out single without a partner?
This being a resort town, there are usually plenty of singles out and about. While this may not make it more comfortable, at least you'll have company and find it easy to blend in.

4) Is it easy to find a partner? Can a woman ask a man to dance?
This being a small town, and because tourists are here to have fun (and because we locals think we're pretty mellow because we live in paradise), I like to think people are more friendly and that there's probably less "attitude" than your average city--hence, it's easier to meet people. This is generally true, nonetheless, it's not always true and I suspect you are apt to have a range of experiences. If you are a serious dancer, I would try to attend one of the Dancer's Workshop lessons to meet someone or work your way over to the bar at the Cowboy at the far left hand corner of the dance floor where the regulars hang out. Any guy will tell you it's always appropriate to ask a man to dance (but not to lead) and they'd like to see more of that; at the very least, women need to make themselves more available by leaving your group (even if that's only one other person) and wondering around alone, making good eye contact and smiling.

5) Is it safe?
Luckily, this is still a town where people don't lock their doors and, generally, single women feel safe walking the downtown streets after dark. However, assaults have occurred in the past, albeit infrequently, so I would use caution, particularly if you are the nervous type or you're not sure where you're walking. Inside the bars, things are generally safe but bars will be bars and they are always prone to attracting low-life scum. I think it makes sense to never let your guard down. Within the downtown area distances are short and cabs are cheap.

6) What if I don't know how to dance?
For cowboy dancing, your best shot is the free Thursday night lesson at the Cowboy from 7:30-9pm; or the free Monday night lesson at the Jackson Lake Lodge (in the Park) from 8-9:30pm. If you're a woman, theoretically you only need to know how to follow--relax completely, don't anticipate any moves, go where your partner guides you. An average night at the Cowboy will have any number of local dancers that would be happy (sometimes too happy, if you get my drift) to give you a lesson on the spot--how you catch their eye is up to you. For a guy, you can't fake formal dancing so I suggest you dance freestyle/rock and roll. If you're adventuresome and want to try a more formal style, I suggest you move towards the center of the dance floor away from traffic and just rock back-and-forth to the music, from left foot to right foot and back, staying on the beat--effectively a one-step (add Latin hips and you've got a Meringue). Trust me on this one: all the fancy dance moves in the Universe look like poop if you're off the beat, so just strive for a simple one-step, on the beat.

7) Is there any dance etiquette that I need to know?
There is one piece of etiquette that I hope you burn into the back of your hand so you can always see it. With much of the cowboy music you "travel" by dancing in a counter-clockwise direction around the perimeter of the dance floor. That is, if you're doing a stationary dance (such as the Western Swing or freestyle/rock & roll) at one of the country bars where folks are Two Stepping in a circle, get the hell away from the edge of the dance floor or you will have couples bumping into you about every ten seconds. And, if you're traveling with a Two Step and want to try a series of moves that will slow you down, get out of the flow of traffic by taking a couple of steps towards the center, do your thing, then rejoin the flow. If you're dancing with a more formal dance crowd, it is good etiquette to always dance when you are asked (limiting yourself to one dance would be the appropriate way to show disinterest). If you are dance savvy and chat with locals about dancing, please note that there are regional differences in technique and nomenclature.

TYPE OF DANCE

COWBOY
The two main venues for Cowboy dancing are the Cowboy and the Rancher. They both play live country music six nights a week (less in the off seasons). If you really want to look like a local, when the band goes on break at one place, walk across the street to the other. Sometimes we go back-and-forth all night long. Sunday night, the only place with live dance music, and definitely the only place to be, is the Coach.

BALLROOM
There is no place with Ballroom music, however, with very little imagination you can dance Ballroom to the cowboy music. The beat in the Fox Trot is the same as the Two Step, which is pretty close to the beat for Western Swing and the Jitterbug. The Cha-Cha and Rumba are easy to slip in, mostly to the slower Two Steps. West Coast Swing is popular among the locals and, depending on the band, you should hear a few slow, sleazy West Coast Swing numbers during the evening. Not surprisingly, the Cowboy Waltz and the Vienna Waltz are the same beat too. Dancer's Workshop gives periodic group Ballroom lessons which are open to walk-ins. Is it appropriate to dance Ballroom style to country music--or, more important, does it look cool? Absolutely, but only if you look like you're having fun (i.e., smile).

FREESTYLE/ROCK & ROLL
People, especially tourists, dance freestyle at the Cowboy and the Rancher to the country music and usually the bands mix in some country rock or pure rock songs. However, better locales include the Mangy Moose and Shady Lady. Thursday night at the Stagecoach has become quite a popular Disco night. And about once a month there's a Rave in town with throbbing "house" music, strobes and a fog machine.

LOCATION

COWBOY BAR AND RESTAURANT ("The Cowboy")
It's generally the place to go for country music, particularly if you're a tourist, although if the band is better at the Rancher then that's a better place to go (they're both on the Town Square about fifty yards apart). All the regular local dancers hang out at the bar at the far left hand corner of the dance floor (there's self-serve water there too). When the band goes on break, people often dance to the break music (or head for the Rancher). Don't forget the free, hour and a half Cowboy Dance lesson on Thursday nights at 7:30. During the season, music plays Monday thru Saturday, starting at 9 pm, and bands usually play a two week engagement. Covers range from $2.00 to $5.00 unless you have a valid Teton County driver's license. 25 North Cache, on the Town Square, 733-2207.

RANCHER SPIRITS AND BILLIARDS ("The Rancher")
Although the "Rancher" has had a bit of an identity crisis the last year experimenting with rock and roll, country music is back. A good place to go if you're looking for more local flavor. Music six nights a week, starting at 9 pm, and bands usually play a two week engagement. Covers range from $2.00 to $5.00 unless you have a valid Teton County driver's license. 20 East Broadway, on the Town Square, 733-3886.

STAGECOACH BAR ("The Coach")
Sunday night at the Coach is a religion with many locals and it's one of the oldest musical traditions in town dating back about twenty-five years. It's the only gig in town for dancing on Sunday nights--blue laws require bars to shut at 10 pm except for four holiday weekends--and the famous and fabulous Stagecoach Band plays from 5:30 to 9:30. An amazing cross-section of people, definitely check it out. The dance floor is a challenge--it's small, crowded and linoleum. Thursday nights is Disco night starting at 9:30 and it's attracting a huge crowd. That's it, just Thursdays and Sundays. No covers. In Wilson (15 minute drive from the Town Square at the base of Teton Pass into Idaho), 733-4407.

SHADY LADY SALOON-SNOW KING RESORT ("Shady Lady")
They showcase a variety of non-country, mostly local groups and DJs, from jazz to blues to funk. However, the dance floor is small and if a large band sets up on the dance floor, there's not a lot of room left to dance. So, while dancing is appropriate, it's not always executed. Inside the Snow King Resort, 400 East Snow King Ave. (at the base of Snow King Mountain and ski area, about a mile from the Town Square), 733-5200.

MANGY MOOSE SALOON ("The "Moose")
The Moose is a nationally, well-known aprs-ski venue. They book a variety of progressive, lively, non-country, touring groups (including some well-known groups), appealing to the twenty-something crowd and tourists, usually for a two-night gig. Covers are in the $6 to $12 range with lots of freestyle/rock & roll dancing. Occasional bigger names will garnish covers pushing the $20 range, and the atmosphere may turn a bit more concert-like. 3285 West McCollister Dr., Teton Village (at the big ski area, about a 20 minute drive from the Town Square), 733-4913.

LESSONS

DANCERS WORKSHOP
Dancers Workshop is the premiere group in town for teaching, performances and public dances. They host the free, Thursday night, Cowboy dance lesson at the Cowboy Bar from 7:30-9pm; and the free Monday night lesson at the Jackson Lake Lodge (in the Park) from 8-9:30pm. Most other lessons are a series which are open to anyone on a one-time, walk-in basis. You can arrange private lessons through them too in all types of dance. Call 733-6398.